Come Back to Jamaica, Tourism is All We Have Left…
Gary V at WineLibrary asked about the best documentary we’ve seen this year. While Life and Debt was not new this year, it is a very well produced 2001 documentary on how the Jamaican economy was ruined by the IMF and other Economic Hit Men, that I saw just a few weeks back.
In my 40+ years of life, I’ve been to Jamaica at least six or seven times. I’ve been there as a traditional “tourist” who took the crazy bus ride to Ocho Rios to the all-Inclusive hotel and never left the grounds “for security purposes”. I’ve stayed at the less desirable (cheaper) hotels in Montego Bay (Mobay) who really didn’t care where you go so long as your bill was paid (and where we promptly purchased wristbands in the back alley in order to score free food and drink from the adjacent all-inclusive next door). And I’ve stayed with friends in houses that had no security guards, gates or dogs. We were part of the parish visiting the same stores and businesses as the citizens. I’ve visited the markets, haggled with the sellers, eaten Jerk Chicken from road-side stands, been approached by prostitutes, negotiated with thieves and haven been inspired by Rastafarians. My love for music was expanded while attending Reggae Sunsplash in the late 80s. I am proud to report that an important element of who I am today, is because of my visits to Jamaica.
Anyone who’s been to Jamaica can tell you about the poverty. That part is easy to see as soon as your bus leaves the airport bound for the luxury hotel. “Oh look honey, they have cows and goats in the street!” Most Jamaicans subsist for one year on approximately the same amount you’re going to spend in your six days and seven nights on their island. The beaches are beautiful, the people are hard-working and sincere, the hotels are plentiful and the land and climate are ery suitable for growing just about any crop or livestock. So why would a country like this have such abject poverty? That’s where this Life and Debt starts.
A Rastafarian once taught me that “time is mon-made.” While we were discussing that idea, another Jamaican was negotiating with me, to barter my $25 watch for a very cool skull he had carved from wood. So, while I did agree that time is man-made, it still clearly has value. Though I did go home without a watch…
Life and Debt is an ideal documentary for those who have been following the Confessions of an Economic Hit Men series from John Perkins. If you’re looking for some “best case” scenarios on how to bring an entire country to it’s knees with debt, here is exhibit A. In step-by-step detail, we understand how a country, released from 400 years of British rule in 1962, foundered for 10 years and then began borrowing from the World Bank and the IMF in an attempt to stabilize their economy. The results of this downward spiral of debt has even more impact when you’ve witnessed those results from the safe side of your bus window.
Another Rasta taught me about respect; “respect for all living tings.” To this day, I will often refer to people I don’t know as “sir” or “mam” as an immediate sign of respect. I try to give all people the benefit of the doubt, at least until they prove themselves unworthy. Once I understood this concept, it was easy for me to see how disrespectful tourists were, not just in Jamaica but in other countries as well. As a part of this core change, I started to sign my business letters “Respectfully” as opposed to the more common “Sincerely”. Sincerity probably doesn’t play a large role in business these days, but Respect and trust is something that is vital for positive transactions.
The highpoint of this film is that it clearly documents that Jamaicans can grow just about any fruit or vegetable as well as be productive with dairy farms or livestock. The problem has been the trade agreements which allows food to be brought in from other countries at a price lower than farmers are capable of producing on their own. Jamaica has the ability to be self-sustaining, but their history of borrowing and past political obligations have put them in a position to be simply consumers of other countries goods. It no longer makes sense for them to be farmers of any sort and even attempts at creating sweat shops near Kingston have failed.
Whether you are in the game or not, doesn’t matter, because the game is ALWAYS going on. You’re either being played or you are the player, but the game is on. During our last trip to Jamaica, from a balcony view you could see a bunch of little tiny shops set-up just outside the security gates near the beach. A handful of Jamaicans were enticing the tourists with trinkets, t-shirts and other semi-legal goodies. Security near-by provided warnings, but didn’t actively prevent us from visiting this make shift market outside our “Safe zone”. A few nights later, while dancing in one of the clubs inside the hotel, who do I see but the same Jamaican’s who security was warning me about during the day. I believe the “market” was a set-up by the hotel to earn some cash off-the-books and that those who worked those stalls were likely hotel employees.
Similarly, one of the nagging issues I had with this documentary was the portrayal of Michael Manley, former Prime Minister of Jamaica, as a victim. We are expected to look into his wise old eyes and feel sorry that he did all he could do, that he had no choice but to accept the funds in order to keep his island afloat. But I wanted other opinions. How do Jamaicans feel about the 15 years he served them? What did other countries, in similar situation do, to avoid this kind of exponential debt cycle? And where the hell is Bono in attempt to get this debt wiped clean to give Jamaica a fresh start? There were many questions like this, that had they been asked or addressed, could have made this a five-star film.
In the end, we’re left with the sense that tourism, in all it’s ugliness and disrespectfulness, is what Jamaicans are forced to deal with in order to provide some level of decent services for their people. They might have the ability to be a self-sufficient country if not for a different history with different leadership. So here are a few helpful hints for those of you traveling to JA this winter season:
1. Big Respect - This is not your country, though you might want it to be.
2. See the Sights - Not just Dunns River Falls and all the other traps, get a taxi and ride. Stop at shops and stands and ENGAGE. If you spend your entire week at the hotel, you haven’t experienced Jamaica. Even though you think your tan and cornrows prove it.
3. Small Dollars - Even if you’re going to an all inclusive, where “gratuities are included” they’re not. If you want to be treated like a schmuck from New Jersey so be it, but learn how to tip inconspicuously and you’ll get first class treatment everywhere.
4. Don’t Get Stupid - Leave your expensive jewelry at home - NOT back at the hotel. Take cheap stuff with you and don’t make yourself a target. You can roam the streets and the shops, but always be aware of what’s going on. These are desperate times here in the US, but it’s been desperate in JA for decades and they know how to survive. The game is always on.
5. Rent the Movie - Life and Debt, but buy the soundtrack!
Personally, given my nature, or maybe my star-sign (Aqaurius), you’ll always find me gravitating towards warm waters, beautiful beaches and a strong supply of rum and Red Stripe. I think Negril is next on our hit list…
-pjc